It was a bit windy last night, but it was really blowing this morning. For us Southern California travelers, it had the familiar feel of a Santa Ana, though not quite a hot and dry as those winds can sometimes be. At breakfast, Marin explained that the winds would probably change our plans for the day.
We were supposed to ride from Rogoznica to Primosten and be met by the boat at our next destination. Instead, because it was too windy to sail, we would ride there and then ride back, doubling our planned 15 kilometers. As I have an e-bike on this trip, I have to admit that doing 30 kilometers seemed like a great way to try out this new toy. The German tourists, all of whom have regular mountain bikes, groaned.
It was a lovely ride. I wish I had brought along a Go Pro and attached it to my helmet. Or maybe stopped a couple times along the way to take a picture. But I somehow I was so taken with the fun of riding that I neglected the duty of photography. Such are the failings of a tourist.
The town of Primosten is almost unbearably cute. I am sure that at some point in its history it was once a real fishing village, but casting nets for tourists long ago replaced catching tuna. It also was once an island separated from the mainland by a few shallow feet of water. This was helpful, I suppose, in the middle ages when the residents were busy fighting off the Saracens and the Turks. The town still has the remnants of its old fortifications. However, once the threat from invaders receded, Primosten’s residents built a causeway to connect it to the mainland.
Primosten is dominated by its church on the top of the hill. It is not, I think, particularly old, probably dating from the 18th century. There was some extensive explanation in the front of the church explaining that while the church is dedicated to the Blessed Virgin, the parish is named for Saint George. This did not seem like a particularly big problem to me, but it obviously concerned somebody.
As it was Sunday, Mass was being celebrated. The residents of Primosten seem to have a greater tolerance for long sermons than most American Catholics do. The homily went on and on and on. John boldly stepped in and snapped a picture
while I stood wandered through the churchyard outside. This has to be one of the most stunning locations for a cemetery anywhere. Too bad that the residents cannot enjoy their view!
Primosten, as I said, is has been largely transformed from a fishing village into a nearly perfect tourist destination filled with cafes and gift shops. Still, there are a few rough edges. As I walked past this collapsed house, I heard a guide explain that abandoned properties are a difficult issue in Croatia. The state has been slowly demolishing these structures and selling the land, but the rightful owners and the heirs sometimes appear wanting compensation.
As we sailed out of Primosten, many of our group went up to the sundeck on the top to admire the scenery. John, always young at heart, has taken to snapping selfies
but also a shot or two of me as well.
We sailed for a couple of hours and docked in the city of Sibinek. We had a couple free hours, and then at five o’clock we had a guided tour of the city. We had a lovely tour guide who was fluent in both German and English.
Sibnenik is an old, old city. Although it was established by the Croats, one of the groups of Slavic peoples who flooded into Roman Empire. The exact origins of the Croats, and their relationship to the other Slavic-speaking peoples of Eastern Europe is controversial. What we can be pretty sure of, however, is that there was a recognizable Kingdom of Croatia by the middle of the tenth century, and that this kingdom reached its height in the eleventh century during the reign of King Peter Krešimir IV. This king is considered the founder of Sibenik, and responsible for building the strategically important fortress here at the mouth of the Krka River.
In the centuries that followed, the Croatian kingdom could not resist its more powerful neighbors and Sibenik, like other Dalmatian coast cities, was at various times a possession of the Hungarians, the Byzantines, the Venetians, and finally the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Bits of all these different influences can be seen in the city’s architecture. There are at least a dozen major churches and monasteries in the old part of the city as well as many remarkably well-preserved homes of wealthy merchants.
As we walked through the narrow, winding streets, our guide pointed out all the historically-important sights. She also showed us, in a shop window, a mannequin wearing the traditional dress of the region. I am not sure, however, how many peasants in the Austro-Hungarian Empire sported cool sunglasses.
Later on, in another store another manequin different look, though I was not sure if this was couture or a costume from Game of Thrones. In either case, it was interesting.
However, actual fashion on actual people in the streets is often less successful.
The jewel of Sibenik is its cathedral.
The cathedral is dedicated to Saint James the Great, but the patron and protector of the city is Saint Michael the Archangel.
The cathedral is a transitional work between the late gothic period and the Renaissance. This is most visible in the famous baptistry.
The ceiling is utterly exquisite.
Another one of the most remarkable features of the cathedral are the faces of dozens of ordinary residents which were chiseled in white limestone on the side of the building. For the time, the work is remarkably realistic.
The cathedral was badly damage by Yugoslavian forces in 1991 as they tried to crush the Croatian independence movement. The ceiling has been repaired, but there is still some visible damage such as these bullet holes in the bronze doors.
Our tour ended here, and we had a free evening to explore the city. As we were wandering about, we saw Marin and Lucy having some coffee in a local coffee shop.
There is some kind of show taking place later this evening, and we wondered if we could get a good seat for free. Alas, no. This perch gives a marvelous view of the city but not the stage below.
