Malta is a small archipelago. Most people live on the largest island which is also called Malta. A much smaller number live on the second largest island, Gozo. The remaining handful of islands are either small and lack any meaningful source of water. After being a little disconcerted to discover just how urban Malta is, we were definitely looking forward to seeing Gozo.
Our driver met us with the van a few minutes late. He had a young girl with him, and we figured that this was his daughter. Most of the Maltese we have met so far have been quite reserved, but this man liked to talk. His English was not perfect, but it was better than average for this island. We drove north towards the ferry to Gozo. He asked us where we had been. We told him that where our bike rides had taken us and also about our trips to Valletta and Mdina. He asked us if we had been to Popeye’s Village. John perked up. “No,” he said. “Is it on the way?"
In the early 1970’s, shortly after the success of Nashville, Robert Altman had decided to make a movie of the cartoon with Robin Williams in the lead role. Probably because it was cheap to film here in Malta, Altman constructed a huge set in an inlet on the north part of the island. People like it so much that when I burnt down a few years later, they rebuilt it. I am not sure how many people still watch the movie, but the set is a big tourist draw.
We fortunately did not have to wait long for the ferry. Although a short crossing, we left the van and walked around the deck of the ship. John bought some snacks and a couple souvenirs. Soon we were approaching Gozo.
As we drove off the boat, we chatted some more with our driver. He told us that the girl with him had only been to Gozo once before in her life even though she had only lived in Malta. We said something about her being his daughter, and he corrected us. “No, she’s my girlfriend,” he said. As she could not have been more than fourteen, we were appalled but could say nothing.
We drove through a small port town.
Our destination was the tiny village Xlendi. We were there is no time at all. Our accommodation for the next three nights is the Saint Patrick hotel. I knew right away that I would like it here. The hotel is older, relatively small, and located right on the beach. We filled out all the usual paperwork at the front desk, but our room was not quite yet ready. As it was barely noon, I could hardly complain. We left our luggage at the desk and and went to the restaurant. There is a small sandy beach here in front of the hotel. We both had some coffee and enjoyed our surroundings. It was everything we had wanted Malta to be.
We observed with pleasure that there is still fishing going on here.
After a couple of cokes, we were restless and decided to explore. Xlendi is located at the end of a small inlet.
The water is clear and magnificently turquoise.
At the end of the inlet we came to sandstone cliffs.
At some point, the Knights Hospitalers had erected some fortifications here.
But local people had used it a place to dry sea salt.
We watched some tourists — they had to be Italian or French — set up a beach umbrella.
Around this time, we noticed that it was two o’clock and John realized that the medication alarm on his phone was probably ringing like crazy at the desk. We called the hotel and told them how to silence it. We felt embarrassed, but I know they were grateful. We walked back more quickly to the hotel, crossing over the stone bridge that leads from the town toward the tower.
Our room was ready for us. It is simple, but it has a great view of the entire inlet.
There is a rooftop pool, and it even had wifi! I need to put away the computer and enjoy some of the planet’s loveliest scenery! But such is the life of a travel blogger.
In the evening we had a mediocre meal at the restaurant. We watched as sun faded and the lights came on in town,
and reflected in the water.
Tomorrow is our last bike ride. This one is different from the previous two as we leave from the hotel — nobody picks us up. So we are going to get up as early as possible and leave before it gets too hot. I hope that this bike ride will be a happier experience than our last one.
So far, Gozo is the best!
